Professional Rust Proofing/Wax Injection Gun for Underseal & Waxoyl etc WS1

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Best yo re-apply it once every few years to make sure all the stone chips and scuffs are covered and sealed. For a few years now I have been using a secret additive which I add at 2% to the waxoyl to make it impact resistant. I have found that not only does this make the waxoyl abrasion resistant with no trade off in its capability to kill rust, I have found that it also prevents the waxoyl from oxidizing and disappearing over time. Oils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly. Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout.

Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside)

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This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Waxoyl should help stop water getting in to connectors and terminals, causing corrosion. I also put some on the battery terminals and the main chassis ground connection. I don’t know much about compressors. This was my first time using one. All I know is that the maximum value on the dial was about 115psi (about 8 bar) which is more than enough for this job – I know because I tested it out and it got incredibly messy. Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water.

Grabbing some white spirit to further thin the waxoil I entered the kitchen and unscrewed the waxoil lid. I have a custom built pressure washer of enormous power which can blast off the rust. See this clip: Remote areas/Scottish Highlands and non-UK Mainland areas may be subject to additional charges and a longer delivery time. This is determined by our couriers not Rustbuster. Clutching hot waxoil injector thingy, part filled with waxoil and mixed with very very warm white spirit I squirted and soaked the chassis blasting away, and also practising holding my breath as it went misty in the workshop. later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?"Waxoil is good at what it does, but it's no good spraying it over rust! The waxoil will seal the rust alright, but it also trap the existing moisture (doesn't need much - there is enough moisture in the air) and oxygen (rust is an OXIDE remember - this oxygen can be scavanged from existing rust / ferrous oxide III) and the rust will still grow and spread - though at a slightly slower pace. Clean up all rust before spraying waxoil over it hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do? I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative.

Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment. More recently, I've used motor oil, thinned with diesel or kerosene to the point where it can be sprayed with one of those cheapo trigger-action hand sprayers, though a proper cavity sprayer would probably be better. Waxoyl and Ziebart both definatly work. My MK2 Granada had waxoyl done from new and its survived very well in places it should have rotted away. The sills, chassis, doors etc are all still in good solid original condition after nearly 30 years and 200K miles! The car has needed extensive welding but only in places the original Ford coatings have failed! Its certainly done the job as im sure the car wouldnt be around today had it not been treated. It can be a pain though when welding as it melts in the heat and catches fire easily!It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… Long term, it forms a semi-solid skin of wax (demi-semi-solid in average Scottish temperatures) under which rust continues.